CONTENTS
 

Impressum

Vol.21  Issue MARCH 2021

28.02.2021 Tags : #paris #pfw #pretaporter #fashion #fashionweek #catwalk #style #trend #model #apparel #designer #andrewgn
Text/Photos : Andrew Gn

Andrew Gn

Notes on SPRING SUMMER 2021

Andrew Gn

During the lockdown, like many others, I had a lot of time to think about my purpose and my work.

I strongly feel that, despite all the unknown, we have to move forward. We have to project ourselves towards better times. We, designers, are the core and the driving force of the whole fashion ecosystem. The weavers, printers, embroiderers, ateliers, all depend on our creative work. We must keep on.

Some might question “who knows when and where women will be able to wear these clothes you’re designing …?” Maybe, but if we think within that limiting scope, we stop fighting, and the whole system stops and collapses. We accept to loose the war.

So I set out to design a collection which would simply bring joy, pleasure and hope. Times may be very grim, but surely we’ll be celebrating again someday.

First I thought of white. It symbolizes purity, cleansing, rebirth. Total white looks with contrasting textures and materials : guipure, silk, lace, tweed, fringe… Smooth and knobby, matte and shiny, soft and structured...

Then I moved into colors, in a range of a striking peacock blue, tangerine, chartreuse, pale turquoise, blush pink, Sahara beige...

And I ended with prints, going in two different ways:
A figurative print called "Iris Border", inspired from one of my mother’s Japanese kimonos. It has vivid colors and motives reminiscent of Japanese watercolors of the Meiji period.

Then a more abstract print called "Impression of Cherry Blossoms". It was inspired by a series of contemporary paintings which I saw recently, described them to my team in detail, asking them to work from imagination. I like the result very much.

I named this collection "May there be light"

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10.03.2021 Tags : #paris #pfw #hautecouture #fashion #fashionweek #catwalk #style #trend #model #apparel #designer #julienfournie
Text/Photos : Julien Fournie

Impressions Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2021 Part 2

Julien Fournie : First Storm

Julien Fournie : First Storm

Julien Fournié presents his Haute Couture collection via a new form of expression for a fashion designer: for the first time, he is directing his first movie entitled “First Storm”.

"In the post Me Too, post Black Lives Matter era, in the middle of a world health crisis, I consider it my duty as a couturier, to suggest a vision that includes enchantment and magic and promotes imagination," declares the founder of the House which, since its inception, has consistently supported feminists and diversity. "It is about doing everything within our power to avoid the totalitarianism of gloom. "

In this movie, Julien Fournié introduces three young women into a contemporary, dreamlike and glamorous environment. As if attracted by a helter-skelter or a roller-coaster in an amusement park, they explore five different surroundings. In each of them, they experience a new test, like the heroines in a fairy tale. Immersed in the fashion designer’s fetish worlds and under his secret guidance, they will find their own legend. In other words, they will highlight their true personality.

Constantly trying to stretch proportions on the female body thanks to an essentialized cut, Julien Fournié is focusing on sleeve architecture, sharp bust sculpture, and movement in chiffon dresses and tulle petticoats. Elongating women's bodies, Julien Fournié’s designs favor expert needlework, particularly with inlays, realized with embroidery, in semi-sheer materials, in feathers. His designs add lightness to refinement, with tight pleats, ruffles of chiffon and layers of transparency.

Both film and collection aim to re-enchant the vision of women. A lifelong cinema lover, the couturier immerses his muses into symbolic worlds, winking at all the film directors he respects and admires, from Georges Méliès to Quentin Tarantino, including Jacques Demy

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20.03.2021 Tags : #paris #pfw #hautecouture #fashion #fashionweek #catwalk #style #trend #model #apparel #designer #tonyward
Text/Photos : Tony Ward

Impressions Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2021 Part 3

Tony Ward : COUTURE 2021 EDIT

Tony Ward : COUTURE 2021 EDIT

Strobe lights flickering and Deep-House music thumping.

We are in a warehouse, past curfew hours, celebrating late into the early hours the infectious pulse that is Beirut.

We skipped the last couture season to reassess & realign.

And take an off-track leap forward.

She is uninhibited, super-glam.

Her silhouettes are sharp, every now & then, dramatic volumes take shape.

For Him, introducing menswear for the first time, Beirut's glittering horizon reflected into embroidered tailored suits & shimmering hoodies.

Both unsettled, yet acutely focused.

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