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Vol.14 Issue 12/01, 20.12.2014 |
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Photos : Copyright © 2014, fashionfreak. All rights reserved. Text : JF, Paris
Impressions Haute Couture F/W 2014 Part 5Collection Julien Fournié
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Collection Julien Fournié In the eleventh collection under his name, Julien Fournié operates radical choices to underline the essence of his style. The aesthetic impulse is set with shades of black singing thanks to a few chosen contrasting colors. "I've been thinking about the precise elegance of Maria Casarès in the 1945 movie by Riobert Bresson Les Dames du Bois de Boulogne. How could I render the charm printed on film in black and white, and integrate it to the necessary colors of real life?" The inspiration for the couturier’s response was found "in German expressionism, and particualrly in some works by painter Otto Dix, in the way he put colors side by side to create emotion." Julien Fournié’s enchantresses "à la Anita Berber" are moulded in sharp cuts, infusing to any movement an aristocratic composure. Cut out in dense jerseys or surrounded by a swirl of chiffon, the curves of the bodies are dancing with nobility. The couturier’s universe, close to a David Lynch movie atmosphere this season, portrays sorceresses in essential cuts, printed thorns or spiky long necklaces they consider as talismans. In contrast to the arcanes of blacks, solid colors, inlays or brocade, bakelite embroideries illustrate the eternal struggle between mystery and shimmer, innocence and malice, Good and Evil. "Shadow cannot exist without light." This is what these slender females could whisper to discerning ears. Whether they favour the pieces from the first ready-to-wear line included in the show’s first silhouettes, wheteher they prefer sharp accessories or colorama derbies or whether they adore the spell of Couture total looks, they have chosen to assume their personality and transfiguration.
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Copyright © 2014, fashionfreak. All rights reserved. ISSN 1619-5779