CONTENTS
 

Impressum

Vol.15  Issue 01/01, 14.01.2015

Impressions Haute Couture F/W 2014 Part 7

Collection Alexandre Delima

Alexandre Delima Couture

The young French-American designer Alexandre Delima, bom in Peru to an Iranian father and a French mother, worked as an assistant to Christophe Josse for five years, and has now burst onto the scene with a first collection, modestly presented so that the spotlight is on French-style expertise.

A collection ranging from daytime to grand gala evening wear with variants on 14 silhouettes, without a single one out of place: a judicious first step in an acrobatic exercise of considerable maturity, where the beginnings of a future great name in French fashion can already be discerned, and where the aim is ultimate perfection combined with pure, rediscovered tradition. A vision of astonishing modernity through its rock/revisited couture influences, with dipped lambskin perfecto and teddy jackets. A keen fan of clubbing and the night-time world - he has been a DJ in his time - Alexandre Delima is highly inspired by the realm of sport and hip hop, as well as by sci-fi films. This is ultra-chic ultra-glamour, which would sit beautifully on various stars and elegant women.

The couturier makes play with effects of transparency/opacity, matt/shiny and constructed fluidity. He uses a strongly contrasting palette, ranging from optic white and a range of off-whites to the extremes of anthracite, black and coal. A Nattier blue, an almost black ink and a deep emerald are the only other isolated colors. He notably uses the noblest materials, together with the finest large-scaled python skins.

His work features mechanical, Calder-like geometry in metal plaque embroidery - sometimes in trompe-l'oeil levitation-, extraordinarily skilled in-house embroidery work, and perfect, broadly-sketched cuts. Rigid and jointed belts/corsets in fine gold-plated brass or tortoiseshell-look cellulose acetate, together with an amazing pectoral, foreshadowing the future House logotype, can be seen here and there on a silhouette.

For Alexandre Delima, "energy and a feline quality represent the very essence of the eternal feminine ideal, and my vision of it."

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